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Decorative and Faux Finishes Showroom
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Color is one of the most
fulfilling elements in our lives. Color can attract your attention or change
your mood and is one of the first things you notice when you walk into a
room. Is it any wonder that color, and how you use it, is one of the most
important decorating decisions you'll make in your home? Inside your home,
specialty color furniture finishes give you an opportunity to give voice to
your personality and décor. Decorative or faux finishes are easy to create. Read on to learn more about distressing,
marble effects, color washing, ragging and wood graining on any piece of
furniture! These techniques are often effective when added as a simple
finishing touch to a piece of furniture, perhaps just on the top, drawer
front, or door panel. All products shown below are from General Finishes
Water Based Finishes. |
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Distressing
is the technique of
marking wood to mimic the character of generations of use. The most
common form is distress sanding. Other tools can be used to give further
aging dimension to wood; hammers, nails, screws, old hardware, literally
anything you can pound into the wood that would leave an imprint. This
look: Somerset Gold Milk Paint sanded off. |
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Antiquing
is a another form of distressing using sanding techniques combined with
either Glazing or a second color of Milk Paint - giving the appearance of an old piece of
furniture that has
been well taken care of over the years but has slight natural wear on
the doors, edges, or sides.
For more
Milk Paint and Glaze design ideas, click here.
The look of
distressing and antiquing is enhanced on furniture with moldings and
raised panels.
This look: Antique White Milk Paint over Cypress Green Milk Paint. |
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Glazing
is the process of
applying a translucent color to the surface, and then rubbing off the
excess to create decorative effects. Often called "color washing" or
"burnishing", Glaze will put a "wash of translucent color" over the base
color underneath.
Click here to see more samples of
Glazed Milk Paint . When Glaze is applied with techniques such as sponging,
ragging or Strie', more unique looks can be achieved. This look: Basil
Green
Paint sanded off, followed by Red Sienna Glaze. |
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Sponging or Color Washing
is the process of applying a translucent color to the surface, and then
pouncing the Glaze with a dampened sea sponge or soft cloth. To achieve
an aged patina, apply an additional lighter Glaze over a darker Glaze.
This look: Yellow Ochre Glaze over Antique White Milk Paint. |
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Strie' (Dragging) The word strie' is French, meaning to comb through
the Glaze mixture with dry dragging tools such as a brush, in order to
create fine lines and to reveal the base coat color underneath. This
look: Burnt Umber over Buttermilk Yellow Milk Paint. |
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Wet
Color Blending
This free form
wet-finish application is known for its subtle variations in color and
soft natural glow. Supremely versatile, it can be adapted to any piece
of furniture. This look: Cranberry Red Country Colors diluted with water based
Top Coat over Snow White Milk paint. |
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Marble Effects
is a timeless decorative finish that adds interest to furniture. When
creating marble effects, keep it "real". Choose surfaces that
realistically would be made of marble, such as table or dresser tops.
This look: White Country Colors Stain with Black Country Color Stain. |
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Pickling
is simply applying a light color stain to wood; then wiping off the
stain to let the color of the wood show through. This look: Egg
Shell Country Colors wiped off. |
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Crackle
technique adds a beautiful, worn elegance to any piece of
furniture. When used with General Finishes water based Wood Stains, Country Colors or
Milk Paints, the crackle medium contracts, fracturing the top stain coat
and exposing the base coat beneath. Within minutes, you can
duplicate the effects of years of natural weathering. Perfect for
that special touch- just crackle the drawer fronts or door panels for a
weathered, aged look. This look: Eggshell Country Colors over
Eggshell Country Colors.
For more Crackle samples, click
here. |
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Antique Wood Graining
Also known as "faux
bois", wood graining is a timeless wood finish that adds warmth and
beauty to any piece. This look: Espresso Wood Stain over a
Cranberry Red Country Colors. |
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Note: These instructions
are for use with General Finishes Water Based Products. Visit our Water
Based Finishes Application Guide for basic water based finish application instructions.
Always follow the instructions for preparation of the wood.
We recommend using a
practice board to preview your
technique and color combinations before beginning your project.
In the following 5
examples, several layers of Milk Paints, Glazes and water based Top
Coats are combined in the tradition of old world craftsmen to create unique,
distressed looks in any color palette. The work goes fast as water based
finishes dry much more quickly. Choose from any of following designs or
create your own.
Click here for more
antiquing designs using Milk Paint and Glazes . The look of distressing and antiquing is enhanced on
furniture with moldings and raised panels.
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1. One coat
of Brown Mahogany Wood Stain
2. One coat
of Top Coat to prevent color blending
3. Two
coats of Linen Milk Paint Paint sanded through
4. One or
two coats of Top Coat
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1. Two
coats of Tuscan Red Milk Paint
2. One coat
of Top Coat to prevent color blending
3. Two
coats of Somerset Gold Milk Paint sanded through
4. One or
two coats of Top Coat
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1. Two
coats of Tuscan Red Milk Paint
2. One coat
of Top Coat to prevent color blending
3. Two
coats of a Antique White Milk Paint sanded through
4. One or
two coats of Top Coat
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1. Two
coats of Coastal Blue Milk Paint
2. One coat
of Top Coat to prevent color blending
3. Two
coats of Linen Milk Paint sanded through
4. One or
two coats of Top Coat
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1. Two coats of
Outback Brown Milk Paint
2. One coat of Top
Coat to prevent color blending
3. Two coats of Lamp
Black Milk Paint sanded through
4. One or two coats
of Top Coat |
Two
Color Antiquing With Glaze
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The look of distressing
and antiquing is enhanced on furniture with moldings and raised panels, so
choose your piece accordingly.
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Start by working on a
test board first to perfect your skills and see an example of what your
finished project will look like. Do not practice on your new furniture.
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Paint on a coat of your
selected Milk Paint color.
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Let dry and add a second
coat.
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Buff between coats with
#320 or #400 sandpaper or superfine sanding sponge.
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Apply a layer of water
based Top Coat. Allow the Top Coat to dry 2 to 4 hours before applying
Glaze. The Top Coat causes the Glaze to slide on the painted surface and
allows more open time to wipe the Glaze off. Optional: For a heavily
glazed look, skip this Top Coat layer.
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Using #100 to 120
grit sandpaper, sand edges of raised panels, doors, drawers and corners of
cabinet all the way through to bare wood. Sand heavily for a more rustic
look.
Tips on Distress Sanding
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Do not use an orbital sander on flat surfaces, as the Glaze will
pick up any imperfections in sanding, particularly the circular
motion of orbital sanders.
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Hand sanding is usually preferred. However, if you are
experienced, you may carefully use an orbital or other power sander
to sand corners and edges to expose the raw wood. Then finish
with hand sanding. Practice first to test your skills.
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Sand the areas you
want antiqued with a power sander using #100 or #120 grit sandpaper
to enhance edges, corners, around door knobs, etc. The look you are
trying to obtain is a slightly distressed piece, so don't hold the
sander in one spot too long.
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Do one side at a
time.
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After you have
finished a section, wipe it down with a slightly damp cloth to
remove dust and reveal the bare wood or base coat of finish
underneath, creating the look of slightly worn areas. Be careful not
to sand too hard after you have wiped a section with the damp cloth.
Sanding damp finish will cause more paint to come off. Gradually
sand all areas.
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After you have
completed initial sanding with a power sander, finish by hand
sanding the edges, corners, and moldings using either a #100 or #220
grit sandpaper.
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Think about where
extra wear would be from using the door knobs, etc. You will notice
as you sand that different pressures expose varied amounts of
undercoat. The doors of furniture get the most wear, so open and
close the doors and take notice of where your hands are. Imagine
over time how much the areas are used and touched. This should help
you decide what areas need to be more distressed.
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If your piece has a
lot of flat surfaces, additional hand sanding on random areas of the
surface will give final look more character.
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If you are working
with bead board and moldings, it is not necessary to sand flat
surfaces heavily. The moldings and bead board will pick up the
Glaze, increasing the depth of color and character.
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Pour Glaze color into a paper plate covered with aluminum
foil or painter’s tray. Working one small section at a time,
apply the Glaze liberally with a foam brush, synthetic brush
or paint pad over entire section, keeping the surface wet
with Glaze.
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Wipe off excess with absorbent wiping cloths or paper towels
to achieve desired look. Do not use Tee-shirts- they do not
absorb water based products well.
The Glaze will color your sanded areas
and give the painted sections an aged look.
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If you want to rework a section, simply rewet the
working area
with Glaze.
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Work quickly, so that the Glaze color does not dry before
finishing a section. If necessary, mask off smaller sections
around raised areas such as bead board and moldings. Glazes
dry fairly quickly, so plan your sections before beginning.
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If working in high temperatures or low humidity, Glaze
Effects may be thinned with 10-20% water or General Finishes
Extender (3 to 6 oz. per quart) to improve open time for
application.
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Let dry 2-4 hours. Apply water based Top Coat for additional
durability or to increase sheen.
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The following Glaze
finishes are interesting to use on an entire piece or just a drawer front or
door panel. All of the following techniques require the same basic process
as above. The difference is in how the Glaze is applied and removed.
Sponging
or Color Washing (additive
technique)
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This is the process of
applying a translucent color to the surface, and then pouncing the Glaze
with a dampened sea sponge or soft cloth. To achieve a more aged patina,
apply an additional Glaze layers.
This look: Yellow Ochre Glaze over Antique White Milk Paint. |
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Start by working on a
test board first to perfect your skills and see an example of what your
finished project will look like. Do not practice on your new
furniture.
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Work in sections, masking
where appropriate. If working with panels of molding and bead board,
treat those areas as sections, masking them off.
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Paint on a base coat of
your selected Milk Paint color.
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Let dry and add a second
coat.
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Buff between coats with
#320 or #400 grit sandpaper or superfine sanding sponge.
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Apply a layer of water
based Top Coat. Allow the Top Coat to dry 2 to 4 hours before applying
Glaze. The Top Coat allows the Glaze to slide on the painted surface and
increases the open time to work with the Glaze. Option: For a heavily glazed
look, skip the Top Coat layer.
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Work quickly, so that the
Glaze color does not dry before finishing a section.
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Dip a water-dampened sea
sponge into the Glaze color or brush the Glaze color onto the sea sponge.
Bunched up plastic wrap or dry paper bags can be used instead of a damp
sea sponge.
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Blot excess Glaze color
onto a clean rag.
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Apply the Glaze color by
blotting/pouncing the sponge onto the surface until the desired affect is
achieved.
Option: working with three
colors - a base color, a Glaze color darker than your base color, and a
third, deeper Glaze color - will result in a look with richer color depth.
Allow each Glaze layer to dry.
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Turning or rotating the
sponge will create a random look. Do not squeeze the sponge or push down
too hard onto the surface. You may experiment with a bunched up cloth to
vary the texture.
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Re-apply the Glaze color
onto the sponge as necessary.
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Continue applying the
technique, blending the completed area into the newest section to avoid
distinct, overlapping lines. Always maintain a "wet edge" as you work across
the surface.
(A "wet edge" is the edge of a wet, coated area that is still workable and will
blend easily).
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Option:
For a more textured look, experiment with a large paint brush to apply the
Glaze mixture. Use a criss-cross motion to brush the mixture onto the
surface
in random strokes. Finish this technique by feathering out any harsh
brush strokes, lightly sweeping over what you have done with a clean dry
brush.
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Finish by applying two or
three coats of water based Top Coat, sanding in between coats with a super
fine foam sanding pad or #400 sandpaper.
Ragging
On
(additive technique)
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Start by working on a
test board first to perfect your skills and see an example of what your
finished project will look like. Do not practice on your new
furniture.
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Work in sections.
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Paint on a base coat of
your selected Milk Paint color.
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Let dry and add a second
coat.
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Buff between coats with
#320 pr #400 grit sandpaper or superfine sanding sponge.
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Apply a layer of water
based Top Coat. Allow the Top Coat to dry 2 to 4 hours before applying
Glaze. The Top Coat allows the Glaze to slide on the painted surface and
increases the open time to work the Glaze coat. Optional: For a heavily
glazed look, skip the Top Coat layer.
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Submerge a water-dampened
rag into the Glaze color and wring out the excess.
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Apply a second layer of
either Glaze or Milk Paint by blotting or rolling the rag onto the
surface until the desired affect is achieved. Note: Milk
Paint colors can be inter-mixed to create custom colors or added to Clear
Glaze Effects to create custom glazes.
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Frequently re-arrange and
re-scrunch the rag to create random natural look.
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Work quickly, so that the
Glaze color does not dry before finishing a section.
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Re-submerge the rag into
the Glaze color as necessary.
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Continue applying the
technique, blending the completed area into the newest section to avoid
distinct, overlapping lines. Always maintain a "wet edge" as you work across
the surface.
(A wet edge is the edge of a wet, coated area that is still workable and will
blend easily).
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Finish by applying two or
three coats of water based Top Coat, sanding in between coats with a super
fine foam sanding pad or #400 grit sandpaper.
Ragging
Off
(subtractive technique)
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Start by working on a
test board first to perfect your skills and see an example of what your
finished project will look like. Do not practice on your new
furniture.
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Work in sections.
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Paint on a base coat of
your selected Milk Paint color.
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Let dry and add a second
coat.
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Buff between coats with
#320 or #400 grit sandpaper or superfine sanding sponge.
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Apply a layer of water
based Top Coat. Allow the Top Coat to dry 2 to 4 hours before applying
Glaze. The Top Coat allows the Glaze to slide on the painted surface and
increases the open time to work the Glaze coat. Optional: For a heavily
glazed look, skip the Top Coat layer.
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Liberally apply a second
layer of either Glaze or Milk Paint by blotting or rolling the rag
onto the surface until the desired affect is achieved. Note: Milk
Paint colors can be inter-mixed to create custom colors or added to Clear
Glaze Effects to create custom glazes.
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Using a rolled/scrunched
rag, dab or roll off the wet Glaze color, starting from the edges of the
section. This technique will reduce "distinct or hard lines" on the
surface.
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Frequently re-arrange and
re-scrunch the rag to create a random and natural look.
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Work quickly, so that the
Glaze color does not dry before finishing a section.
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If the rag becomes
overloaded with Glaze, rinse out the rag or dab excess onto dry paper
towel.
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When applying the Glaze
color to the next section, blend the completed area into the newest
section to avoid hard, overlapping lines. Maintain a "wet edge"
as you work across the surface. Continue applying the technique, blending
the completed area into the newest section to avoid distinct, overlapping
lines. Always maintain a wet edge as you work across the surface.
(A "wet edge" is the edge or end of a wet, coated area that is still workable and will
blend easily).
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Finish by applying two or
three coats of water based Top Coat, sanding in between coats with a super
fine foam sanding pad or #320or #400 grit sandpaper.
Strie'
or Dragging |
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The word strie' is
French, meaning to comb through the Glaze mixture with dry dragging
tools such as a brush, in order to create fine lines and to reveal the
base coat color underneath.
This look: Red Sienna Glaze over Buttermilk Yellow Milk Paint. |
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Start by working on a
test board first to perfect your skills and see an example of what your
finished project will look like. Do not practice on your new
furniture.
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Work in sections.
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Paint on a base coat of
your selected Milk Paint color.
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Let dry and add a second
coat.
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Buff between coats with
#320 or #400 grit sandpaper or superfine sanding sponge.
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Apply a layer of water
based Top Coat. Allow the Top Coat to dry 2 to 4 hours before applying
Glaze. The Top Coat causes Glaze to slide on the painted surface and
allows open time to work the Glaze coat. Optional: For a heavily glazed
look, skip the Top Coat layer.
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Liberally apply a second
layer of either Glaze or Milk paint with a paint pad applicator. Note:
Milk
Paint colors can be inter-mixed to create custom colors or added to Clear
Glaze Effects to create custom glazes.
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Using a dry brush,
lightly drag the bristles down (in one direction through the wet Glaze
Color).
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Maintain a dry brush by
wiping with a cloth rag or paper towel after each pass.
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Continue applying Glaze
and dragging until the surface is complete.
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Work quickly, so that the
Glaze color does not dry before finishing a section.
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For a denim or woven
look, allow the dragged surface to dry 20 minutes, then lightly apply a
thin coat of Glaze color over the dragged surface while dragging the brush
horizontally across.
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When applying the Glaze
color to the next section, blend the completed area into the newest
section to avoid hard, overlapping lines. Maintain a wet edge
as you work across the surface. Continue applying the technique, blending
the completed area into the newest section to avoid distinct, overlapping
lines. Always maintain a wet edge as you work across the surface.
(The wet edge is end of a wet, coated area that is still workable and will
blend easily).
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Finish by applying two or
three coats of water based Top Coat, sanding in between coats with a super
fine foam sanding pad or #320 or #400 grit sandpaper.
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This is a timeless
decorative finish that adds interest to furniture. When creating marble
effects, keep it "real". Choose surfaces that realistically would be
made of marble, such as table or dresser tops. Marble effects work best
on closed grain woods such as pine, maple, birch, aspen, or alder. If
you use "open-grain" woods, such as oak, the distinct, visible grain of
these woods will show through the background of the marbleizing, and
distort the look. Use your imagination! In nature, there are no two
pieces of marble exactly alike. If you don’t like the results simply
paint over and start again. This look: White Country Colors Stain with Black
Country Colors Stain.
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A white water based
Country Colors Stain or Milk Paint
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A black water based
Country Colors Stain or
Milk Paint
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Water based Top Coat
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Natural sponge
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Lint free cloth (old
T-shirt)
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Feather
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220-400 grit sandpaper
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Foam brushes or latex
paint pad applicator |
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Apply 2 coats of white
water based Stain or Milk Paint to get a solid background.
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Allow each coat to dry
for 2 hours. Then lightly sand the surface to a smooth finish using a
super fine foam sanding pad.
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Dip the tip of the
feather in a black water based Stain or Milk Paint and draw the
marble veins on the surface in a diagonal direction. Use a slow, twisting
motion with the feather as you drag the color across the surface. Veins
should look like lightning bolts or tree branches, each vein roughly
parallel to the one next to it. Avoid a crisscross pattern. Veins should
continue from edge to edge. Allow the veins to dry for 1 to 2 minutes.
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Pour equal parts of
White Country Colors Stain or Milk Paint and water based Top Coat into a
paper plate covered with aluminum foil or painter’s tray.
(If using Milk Paint, thin 20% with water or General Finishes
Extender first )
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Dip the dampened sponge
into this mixture and then blot the excess on a dry paper towel.
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Apply the mixture color
by blotting/pouncing the sponge onto the wet veins until the desired
affect is achieved. Lift the sponge - do not drag it. The sponge will soften the veins,
covering them slightly. It will also pull some of the black color
off, blending the background with grey. Let this dry 5 minutes.
This step can be repeated several times until a layered look is
achieved.
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Next, fold a cloth into a
pad making sure there are no wrinkles on the bottom side. Wrinkles will
leave an undesirable pattern on the surface. A latex paint pad applicator
can also be used. Blot the entire surface with the clean applicator by
pouncing the surface, lifting the pad straight up and down, blending the
black veins into the white background.
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Using the black color,
lightly accentuate the veins again with the feather. Allow this to dry 2
hours.
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Finish by applying two or
three coats of water based Top Coat, sanding in between coats with a super
fine foam sanding pad or #320 or #400 grit sandpaper.
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This free form
wet-finish application is known for its subtle variations in color and
soft natural glow. Supremely versatile, it can be adapted to any piece
of furniture. This look: Cranberry Red
Country Colors diluted with water based
Top Coat over Snow White Milk paint. |
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Apply a base coat
of color water based Wood Stain or Milk Paint. While the first color
is still wet, immediately apply a second color over the base color.
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Then brush out the two
colors using a dry bristle brush. This will blend the two colors to create
a softer shade with interesting texture.
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Let the piece dry and
apply two or three coats of water based Top Coat, sanding in between
coats with a super fine foam sanding pad #320 or #400 grit sandpaper.
A
second method of color washing:
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Apply a base coat
of Country Colors Stain or Milk Paint. Allow this to dry.
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Apply a layer of water
based Top Coat to prevent color blending. Allow the Top Coat to dry 2 to 4
hours.
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Apply a second color.
While the second color is still wet, wipe off corners, edges of moldings
etc. to reveal the color layer underneath.
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Let the piece dry and
apply two or three coats of water based Top Coat, sanding in between
coats with a super fine foam sanding pad.
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Pickling is simply
applying a light color stain to wood; then wiping off the stain to let
the color of the wood show through. The most popular Pickle color
is white, however any color can be used. This look:
Egg Shell Country Colors Wood Stain wiped off. |
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Apply any water based
Wood Stain and wipe off as much as you want while letting the wood grain
show through the stain. Country Pine, Golden Oak or Antique Oak work well
for a first color. The look you want to achieve is a soft subtle
color.
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Let the piece dry and
apply two or three coats of water based Top Coat, sanding in between coats
with a super fine foam sanding pad.
Another pickling method is the French Provincial look which requires two
stain coats.
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First apply a light color
Wood Stain and let dry for 2 hours.
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Then apply a coat of
water based Top Coat and let dry for 2 hours.
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Finally add the look of
age by applying a wash coat of Country Colors White Stain. Push the White into the edges
of raised panels or into detail areas such as carvings. Eggshell also
works well for a softer look.
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Wipe off the stain from
the other areas and let dry.
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Finish by applying two or
three coats of water based Top Coat, sanding in between coats with a super
fine foam sanding pad or #320 or #400 grit sandpaper.
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This technique adds a
beautiful, worn elegance to any piece of furniture. When used with
water based Wood Stains or Milk Paints, the crackle medium contracts,
fracturing the top stain coat and exposing the base coat beneath.
Within minutes, you can duplicate the effects of years of natural
weathering. Perfect for that special touch- just crackle the
drawer fronts or door panels for a weathered, aged look.
This look: Eggshell Country Colors over Eggshell Country Colors.
For more Crackle samples click here. |
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Use a Crackle medium with
water based Wood Stains or Milk Paints to produce a weathered, aged
look. (If using Milk Paint, thin 20% with water or General Finishes
Extender first ). The Crackle contracts when a water-based stain is applied over it.
As the Crackle contracts, it fractures the top stain coat and exposes the
base coat beneath.
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You will need two base
colors (choose from Country Colors, Wood Stain or Milk Paint), crackle medium and
water based Top Coat.
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Begin with a base coat of Country Colors, Wood Stain or
Milk Paint. This will be the color
that shows through the cracks. Let this base coat dry for 2 hours.
It is not necessary to sand this coat. (Note: red colors contain dyes that
will bleed when used over light colors - always do a test first!)
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Apply Crackle with a foam
brush or latex paint pad. A thin application produces thin cracks, and
thicker application produce wider cracks. Let the crackle dry at
least 60 minutes.
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Then brush on a
relatively thick coat of your chosen second color. Do not over brush -
just make one pass. The cracking effect will begin in minutes.
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Let the piece dry
overnight and
apply two or three coats of water based Top Coat, sanding in between
coats with a super fine foam sanding pad or #320 or #400 grit sandpaper.
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Also
known as "faux bois", wood graining is a timeless wood finish that adds
warmth and beauty to any piece.
This look: Espresso Wood Stain over a
Cranberry Red Country Colors. |
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Buy a graining comb or
you can create one by beveling the end of a piece of corrugated cardboard
with a razor knife. This will expose the ripples in the cardboard.
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Apply 2 coats of Milk
Paint or Country Colors Wood Stain, allowing them both to dry.
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Apply a layer of water
based Top Coat to prevent color blending.
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Allow each coat to dry
for 2 hours.
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Apply a heavy coat of
Espresso (or any other dark color) Wood Stain directly over the base color with a poly foam
brush or latex paint pad. Allow the stain to set for 1-2 minutes.
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Drag the comb across the
stain to remove most of the top layer of color, allowing the base color to
show through. The result will look like wood grain. You can purchase
commercial graining combs from craft supply stores to create a different
look.
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To create knots, dip a
1 inch foam brush in the dark secondary color, and twirl the end of the
foam brush on your piece in random places of the grain.
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Let the piece dry and
apply two or three coats of water based Top Coat, sanding in between
coats with a super fine foam sanding pad.
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