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Application techniques differ between
oil based products and water based products. Oil based gel products
require different application techniques than liquid oil based finishes
- both produce equally beautiful, lustrous wood tone finishes. Use the
information below to assist you in selecting the best finish for your
project and finishing style. There are several factors that may
influence your choice.
Attributes
of Oil Based Finishes -selecting your finish
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Wipe-on Liquid Stains and Top Coats |
Wipe-on liquid oil based products
such as GF Wood Stains, GF Arm-R-Seal Top Coat and GF Sealacell
Clear, are made with the highest quality pure urethane resin.
They are as durable as polyurethane, but because of their
thinner viscosity, urethanes are much easier to apply.
Liquid oil based stains penetrate more deeply into the wood than
gel oil based stains or water based products and will bring out
more variation in the in the wood. You will see rich variations
of light and dark tones in the grain, but knots and
irregularities in the wood will also be accentuated.
Liquid oil based stains
apply rapidly and easily, do not require as much removal
of excess product as gel stains do, and come "alive" beautifully
when top coated. If speed of application is important to you,
choose a liquid oil based stain. Many soft or porous woods, like
pine, fir, spruce (soft) and maple, alder and aspen (porous)
have a tendency to absorb stain unevenly. Treating the wood
surface with GF Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner helps prevent
streaking and blotching to help ensure a beautiful, even stain.
Just use the fingernail test. If your fingernail dents the
surface, you have a soft wood, like pine or aspen. |
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Gel Stains and Top Coats |
Unlike liquid stains, gel stain
are thick. Gel Stains give such immediate satisfaction and have
a very high "touch" factor during the finishing process. Due to
their high urethane content, applications of Gel Stain
respond with a high luster sooner than liquid oil based stains
which must be top coated. And they do not splash, drip or
run. However, this high urethane content also increases the
viscosity (thickness), requiring more wiping away of excess
product during the staining process. If you prefer
"rubbing" and polishing a finish on, gel stain for you. The
stain itself contains top coat material and they may be used as
a one can finish. If using a gel stain as a one can finish, we
recommend using at least 2-3 coats.
For maximum durability, apply Gel Topcoat over
Gel Stain. |
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Top Coat Color |
Oil based top coats have a slight
amber color. Water based top coats dry to a clear finish. |
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Clean Up |
Use mineral spirits or paint thinner
for clean up. |
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Dry Time |
Oil based products dry more slowly
than water based products. In good conditions, allow 6-8
hours. In cold or damp conditions, allow 24 hours. |
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The sun affects everything. If left
in strong sunlight, the materials in stains will fade like
everything else does in the sun. |
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Disposal |
When using oil based finishes, take
careful precautions when disposing of waste
products. Rags, steel wool or other waste soaked with these
products may spontaneously catch fire if improperly discarded.
Immediately after use, place rags, steel wool or waste in
sealed, water filled, metal container. Dispose of in accordance
with local fire regulations. |
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Mixing Custom
Colors |
You can create a unique color by
mixing any two shades of GF oil based wood stains, or by
layering one color over another. Be sure to write down
exactly how much of each color is in the mix and mix
enough to complete the entire project. Do not mix oil based
products with water based products. |
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A good supply of
high quality paper towels or lint free absorbent wiping cloths.
Cotton cloth materials such as tee shirts do not absorb well.
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Foam or synthetic
brushes, latex paint pad applicators, and an old bristle brush to
get paint out of corners. You must brush or wash paint pad
applicators before use to remove loose bristles.
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#120, #180 or #220
grit sandpaper for sanding raw wood.
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#320 or #400 grit sandpaper or superfine
sanding sponges for buffing in between coats
of Top Coat.
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All surfaces should be clean and free
from all dirt and oils.
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Fill all nail holes with putty before
sanding. There are two methods:
1. Fill holes before you stain
using putty that dries hard and can be sanded and stained or,
2.
Stain the wood, apply one GF Top Coat, and then use colored putty
that matches the stain.
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Good prep sanding is absolutely
essential to achieving a good finish! Prepare the surface by
using medium paper first, and then proceed to finer grades. For
softwoods such as pine, aspen, or alder, sand first with a #120 grit
sandpaper, and finish sanding using #150 or #180 grit sandpaper.
For closed grained hardwoods such as Oak, Maple or Birch, start with
#100 sandpaper and finish with no finer than #120 sandpaper. Never
start sanding with very fine sandpaper on unfinished wood.
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Remove all the dust by vacuuming or
wiping with a lint-free cloth or tack cloths. End-grains (areas
where the wood has been cut against the grain), such as the front
side of a table, tend to soak up more stain than other surfaces.
Give end-grain areas an additional sanding to control the absorption
of stain.
1. Application of Gel Stain
Caution: If finishing an unassembled
piece of furniture prior to assembly, care must be taken to avoid
getting stain on the areas of the joints. Glue will not stick to
surfaces that have finish on them.
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Using a cloth,
foam brush or paint pad applicator, apply a liberal amount
of Gel Stain to the area of raw wood you are working. Divide
your project into sections: drawer front, table or cabinet top,
side of chest, etc. Keep the area wet with product while
applying. Wipe away the excess with clean cloths or paper
toweling and rub out the stain until the color is even, applying
light pressure with your hand until the first layer of stain
evens out in color. As the first coat of stain dries, the
appearance will be dull or dry. Take heart, the beauty of the
wood will come alive as you add subsequent layers of color and
top coats.
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Additional
coats of stain may be applied for a deeper, richer color.
This photo shows a second coat of Java being applied over the
first coat of Java.
Sanding between coats of any stain
or top coat is referred to as Buffing. We do not
recommend buffing between coats of stain because you may
remove an area of stain that cannot be re-blended. If you must
buff because you have imperfections that need to be smoothed
out, do so with caution using a superfine sanding pad or #320
sandpaper. |
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On the second or
third coats of stain,
wipe off the excess stain using a clean cloth or paper
toweling the direction of the grain. Again, apply light
pressure with your hand until the color is evened out, finishing
with a polishing motion always in the direction of the grain. |
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Tip: Keep
extra wiping cloths nearby as you work, replacing them as
needed until you remove all excess gel stain. Be sure to remove
all rag marks and smudges, turning and changing cloths as
needed. Several thin coats will give a better result. |
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Continue to
turn the cloth to a clean side as you work. On your last few
passes across the surface, use a lighter polishing motion,
continuing to work in the direction of the grain. When you
achieve the depth of color desired, it is time to move on to
optional top coats. |
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Tip: Use
an old dry bristle brush to remove stain buildup from the
corners of molding, bead board, etc. |
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Tip:
Protect any wet surfaces that you may handle by using a dry
cloth. |
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The stain itself
contains top coat material and can be used as a one can
finish. If using a gel stain as a one can finish, we recommend
using at least 2-3 coats.
For maximum durability, apply Gel Topcoat over
Gel Stain.
Apply top coat with a cloth, paint pad or foam
brush. Shown here: application using paper toweling. |
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When
applying topcoats, your application process turns into a very
light, brisk polishing motion with long light sweeping strokes,
as the Top Coats glide along the smoother surface of the
previous stain coats. Several thin coats give the best result.
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Buff lightly
between each top coat with a super fine sanding pad or
#320 sand paper. Do not buff the final
topcoat. Sanding pads are far superior to sand paper as they
form around moldings and corners and they last a long time. We
like using a well-worn pad on the last few coats of top coat to
promote a fine finish. Tip: If your super fine sanding
pad is new, use it on raw wood first when working with the
final finish coat. |
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Vacuum after buffing each layer of top coat. |
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Last
step - just start admiring your beautiful furniture. |
2. Drying Information
Good
conditions, 6-8 hours. Cold or damp conditions, 24 hours.
3. Coverage
200 square feet per
quart.
1. Staining
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Wipe-on Liquid Oil Based
Stains contain colored pigments that often settle to the bottom of
the can and must be thoroughly mixed before application. It may take
as much as five minutes to thoroughly mix the content= of the can so
that the color remains consistent as the content= are used up.
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Do a test first on the
back, bottom or other inconspicuous area of the furniture to check
the stain color before proceeding. If the stain looks evenly coated
and you like the look, one coat staining is adequate. If the stain
is too light or uneven, a second coat of stain may be needed before
the topcoat is applied.
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Apply using a foam brush,
bristle brush, paint pad applicator, or a lint-free cloth such
as an old T-shirt.
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Stain one surface at a
time. As you stain each area, remove excess stain by wiping with a
clean cloth. It is important to wipe off the stain thoroughly
and consistently (in the direction of the grain) to get an evenly
stained surface.
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If a darker, or deeper
color is desired, allow the first coat of stain to dry for 24 hours,
then apply a second coat of stain in the same manner as the first.
Never buff a stain coat, only top coats.
Note:
The white colorant in White Mist is titanium dioxide, which penetrates
far less than the earth clay pigments found in all other stain colors.
White stain is often called pickling stain as it lets much of the wood
color show through. It is not paint and will not cover like paint. Apply
White Mist as directed above. Be sure to wipe off the excess well to
prevent lifting during the application of the top coat. A second coat
will add a little more color. Let White Mist dry for 24 hours before a
second coat or top coats.
2. Optional Pre-Stain
Conditioner
General Finishes Pre-Stain Wood
Conditioner is specifically designed for use before staining new or bare
soft and porous wood surfaces such as with Aspen or Pine. It penetrates
the grain of the wood to promote uniform acceptance of stain, and helps
prevent streaking and blotching to help ensure a beautiful, even stain.
Prior to staining, apply a liberal coat of the Pre-Stain Wood
Conditioner. Allow it to penetrate for 5-15 minutes, then wipe away the
excess with a cloth. For highly absorbent woods, you can then apply a
second coat, wait, and wipe away the excess again. Allow the pre-stain
to dry for 30 minutes before applying stain, but no longer than 2 hours.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Pre-sealing the wood
will lighten the color of your stain so test the Pre-stain and the
color before starting. A second coat of stain may be applied
after the first coat has dried to achieve a darker color.
3. Applying Top Coats
Apply the top coat with a lint-free
cloth, foam brush, or paint pad applicator, moving with the direction of
the grain. For large surfaces, apply a liberal coat as quickly as
possible, evening out the surface with long, smooth strokes, keeping
your applicator wet to provide lubrication. A dry applicator can drag on
the surface and may cause streaks. (These streaks may be easily removed
after the surface has dried by buffing well and recoating). Buff between
top coats with '0000' steel wool or #320 or finer grade sandpaper to
produce a smooth surface. A minimum of 3 top coats is recommended.
4. Drying Information
Wipe-on Liquid Stains and Top Coats
can dry in 6-8 hours under ideal conditions (70% - 75% humidity). Cooler
temperatures or higher humidity may extend the time needed for drying up
to 12-24 hours or longer. Basements, even with a furnace, fireplace, and
dehumidifier, are the worst environments for drying. Provide good
ventilation and air movement with a fan to greatly improve dry time. If
a stain coat is dry, you should be able to wipe your hand across the
surface without feeling any tackiness. If your top coat is dry, sanding
will produce a white powder.
5. Coverage
200 square feet per quart.
Maintenance and Care
It's important to let your final coat
cure for a period of 14 days to reach optimum hardness. You may use your
project sooner, just treat it with special care during the curing
period. To maintain the finish use General Finishes Orange Oil or just a
damp cloth. Paste wax is not recommended, because it builds up and
yellows, thus becoming a maintenance problem.
To rejuvenate an old dull finish,
simply clean surface well with mineral sprits and '0000' steel wool and
apply one of General Finishes Top Coats.
Use caution in
disposal of waste materials!!!!
When using oil based finishes, take
careful precautions when disposing of waste products. Rags, steel wool
or other waste soaked with these products may spontaneously catch fire
if improperly discarded. Never leave application materials indoors.
Immediately after use, place rags, steel wool or waste in sealed, water
filled, metal container. Dispose of in accordance with local fire
regulations.
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