|
Application techniques differ between oil based products and water based
products. Oil based gel products require different application techniques
than liquid oil based finishes - both produce equally beautiful, lustrous
wood tone finishes. Use the information below to assist you in
selecting the best finish for your project and finishing style. There are
several factors that may influence your choice.
Attributes
of Oil Based Finishes -selecting your finish
| |
Wipe-on Liquid Stains and Top Coats |
Wipe-on liquid oil based products such
as GF Wood Stains, GF Arm-R-Seal Top Coat and GF Sealacell Clear,
are made with the highest quality pure urethane resin. They are as
durable as polyurethane, but because of their thinner viscosity,
urethanes are much easier to apply.
Liquid oil based stains penetrate more deeply into the wood than gel
oil based stains or water based products and will bring out more
variation in the in the wood. You will see rich
variations of light and dark tones in the grain, but knots and
irregularities in the wood will also be accentuated.
Liquid oil based stains
apply rapidly and easily, do not require as much removal of
excess product as gel stains do, and come "alive" beautifully when
top coated. If speed of application is important to you,
choose a liquid oil based stain. Many soft or porous woods,
like pine, fir, spruce (soft) and maple, alder and aspen (porous)
have a tendency to absorb stain unevenly. Treating the wood surface
with GF Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner helps prevent streaking and
blotching to help ensure a beautiful, even stain. Just use the
fingernail test. If your fingernail dents the surface, you have a
soft wood, like pine or aspen. |
| |
Gel Stains and Top Coats |
Unlike liquid stains, gel stain are
thick. Gel Stains give such immediate satisfaction and have a very high
"touch" factor during the finishing process. Due to their high
urethane content, applications of Gel Stain respond with a high
luster sooner than liquid oil based stains which must be top coated.
And they do not splash, drip or run. However, this high urethane
content also increases the viscosity (thickness), requiring more wiping away of
excess product during the staining process. If you prefer
"rubbing" and polishing a finish on, gel stain for you. The
stain itself contains top coat material and they may be used as a one
can finish. If using a gel stain as a one can finish, we recommend using at least 2-3 coats. For maximum
durability, apply Gel Topcoat over Gel Stain. |
| |
Top Coat Color |
Oil based top coats have a slight amber color. Water based top
coats dry to a clear finish. |
| |
Clean Up |
Use mineral spirits or paint thinner for
clean up. |
| |
Dry Time |
Oil based products dry more slowly than water based products. In good conditions, allow 6-8 hours. In cold or damp
conditions, allow 24 hours. |
|
 |
The sun affects everything. If left in strong sunlight, the
materials in stains will fade like everything else does in the sun. |
| |
Disposal |
When using oil based finishes, take careful
precautions when disposing of waste products. Rags, steel wool or other
waste soaked with these products may spontaneously catch fire if improperly
discarded. Immediately after use, place rags, steel wool or waste in
sealed, water filled, metal container. Dispose of in accordance with local
fire regulations. |
| |
Mixing Custom Colors |
You can create a unique color by mixing any two shades of GF oil based
wood stains, or by layering one color over another. Be sure to
write down exactly how much of each color is in the mix and mix
enough to complete the entire project. Do not mix oil based
products with water based products. |
-
A
good supply of high quality paper towels or lint free absorbent
wiping cloths. Cotton cloth materials such as tee shirts do not
absorb well.
-
Foam
or synthetic brushes, latex paint pad applicators, and an old
bristle brush to get paint out of corners. You must brush or wash
paint pad applicators before use to remove loose bristles.
-
#120,
#180 or #220 grit sandpaper for sanding raw wood.
-
#320
or #400 grit sandpaper or superfine sanding sponges for buffing in
between coats of
Top Coat.
-
All surfaces should be clean and
free from all dirt and oils.
-
Fill all nail holes with putty
before sanding. There are two methods:
1. Fill holes before you stain using putty that dries hard and can be
sanded and stained or,
2. Stain the wood, apply one GF Top Coat, and then use colored
putty that matches the stain.
-
Good prep sanding is absolutely
essential to achieving a good finish! Prepare the surface by using
medium paper first, and then proceed to finer grades. For softwoods such
as pine, aspen, or alder, sand first with a #120 grit sandpaper, and
finish sanding using #150 or #180 grit sandpaper. For closed grained
hardwoods such as Oak, Maple or Birch, start with #100 sandpaper and
finish with no finer than #120 sandpaper. Never start sanding
with very fine sandpaper on unfinished wood.
-
Remove all the dust by vacuuming or wiping with a lint-free cloth or tack
cloths. End-grains (areas where the wood has been cut against the grain),
such as the front side of a table, tend to soak up more stain than other
surfaces. Give end-grain areas an additional sanding to control the
absorption of stain.
1. Application of Gel Stain
Caution: If finishing an
unassembled piece of furniture prior to assembly, care must be taken to
avoid getting stain on the areas of the joints. Glue will not
stick to surfaces that have finish on them.
|
 |
Using a cloth, foam brush or
paint pad applicator, apply a liberal amount of Gel Stain to
the area of raw wood you are working. Divide your project into
sections: drawer front, table or cabinet top, side of chest, etc.
Keep the area wet with product while applying. Wipe away the
excess with clean cloths or paper toweling and rub out the stain until the color is
even, applying light pressure with your hand until the first layer of
stain evens out in color. As the first coat
of stain dries, the appearance will be dull or dry. Take heart, the beauty of the wood will come alive
as you add subsequent layers of color and top coats.
|
|
 |
Additional coats of stain may be applied for a deeper, richer
color. This photo shows a second coat of Java being applied
over the first coat of Java.
Sanding between coats of any
stain or top coat is referred to as Buffing. We
do not recommend buffing between coats of stain because you may remove an area of stain
that cannot be re-blended. If you must buff because you have
imperfections that need to be smoothed out, do so with caution using a
superfine sanding pad or #320 sandpaper. |
|
 |
On the second or third coats of stain,
wipe off the excess stain
using a clean cloth or paper toweling the direction of the grain. Again, apply light pressure with your hand until the color is evened
out, finishing with a polishing motion always in the direction of the
grain. |
|
 |
Tip:
Keep extra wiping cloths nearby as you work, replacing them as
needed until you remove all excess gel stain. Be sure to remove
all rag marks and smudges, turning and changing cloths as needed. Several thin coats will give a better result. |
|
 |
Continue to turn the cloth to a clean side as you work. On your
last few passes across the surface, use a lighter polishing
motion, continuing to work in the direction of the grain. When you achieve the depth of color desired, it is time to move on to
optional top coats. |
|
 |
Tip: Use an old dry
bristle brush to remove stain buildup from the corners of molding,
bead board, etc. |
 |
Tip: Protect any wet surfaces
that you may handle by using a dry cloth. |
|
 |
The stain itself contains
top coat material and can be used as a one can finish. If
using a gel stain as a one can finish, we recommend using at least 2-3
coats. For maximum
durability, apply Gel Topcoat over Gel Stain.
Apply top coat with a cloth,
paint pad or foam brush. Shown here: application using paper
toweling. |
|
 |
When applying topcoats, your application process turns
into a very light, brisk polishing motion with long light sweeping
strokes, as the Top Coats glide along the smoother surface of the
previous stain coats. Several thin coats give the best
result.
|
|
 |
Buff lightly between each top coat with a super fine sanding
pad or #320 sand paper. Do not buff the final topcoat. Sanding pads are far superior to sand paper as they form around
moldings and corners and they last a long time. We like using a
well-worn pad on the last few coats of top coat to promote a fine
finish. Tip: If your super fine sanding pad is new, use it on raw wood first when working with the final finish coat. |
|
 |
Vacuum after buffing each layer of top coat. |
|
 |
Last step -
just start admiring your beautiful furniture. |
2. Drying Information
Good conditions, 6-8 hours. Cold or
damp conditions, 24 hours.
3. Coverage
200 square feet per quart.
1. Staining
-
Wipe-on Liquid Oil Based Stains
contain colored pigments that often settle to the bottom of the can and
must be thoroughly mixed before application. It may take as much as five
minutes to thoroughly mix the content= of the can so that the color
remains consistent as the content= are used up.
-
Do a test first on the back,
bottom or other inconspicuous area of the furniture to check the stain
color before proceeding. If the stain looks evenly coated and you like the
look, one coat staining is adequate. If the stain is too light or uneven,
a second coat of stain may be needed before the topcoat is applied.
-
Apply using a foam brush, bristle
brush, paint pad applicator, or a lint-free cloth such as an old T-shirt.
-
Stain one surface at a time. As you stain each area, remove excess stain by wiping with a clean cloth.
It is important to wipe off the stain thoroughly and consistently (in the
direction of the grain) to get an evenly stained surface.
-
If a
darker, or deeper color is desired, allow the first coat of stain to dry
for 24 hours, then apply a second coat of stain in the same manner as the
first. Never buff a stain coat, only top coats.
Note:
The white colorant in White Mist is titanium dioxide, which penetrates far
less than the earth clay pigments found in all other stain colors. White
stain is often called pickling stain as it lets much of the wood color
show through. It is not paint and will not cover like paint. Apply White
Mist as directed above. Be sure to wipe off the excess well to prevent
lifting during the application of the top coat. A second coat will add a
little more color. Let White Mist dry for 24 hours before a second coat or
top coats.
2. Optional Pre-Stain Conditioner
General Finishes Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner is specifically designed for use before
staining new or bare soft and porous wood surfaces such as with Aspen or
Pine. It penetrates the grain of the wood to promote uniform acceptance of
stain, and helps prevent streaking and blotching to help ensure a
beautiful, even stain. Prior to staining, apply a liberal coat of the
Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner. Allow it to penetrate for 5-15 minutes, then wipe away the
excess with a cloth. For highly absorbent woods, you can then
apply a second coat, wait, and wipe away the excess again. Allow the
pre-stain to dry for 30 minutes before applying stain, but no longer than
2 hours.
IMPORTANT
NOTE: Pre-sealing the wood will lighten the color of your stain
so test the Pre-stain and the color before starting. A second coat
of stain may be applied after the first coat has dried to achieve a darker
color.
3.
Applying Top Coats
Apply the top coat with a lint-free cloth,
foam brush, or paint pad applicator, moving with the direction of the
grain. For large surfaces, apply a liberal coat as quickly as possible,
evening out the surface with long, smooth strokes, keeping your applicator
wet to provide lubrication. A dry applicator can drag on the surface and
may cause streaks. (These streaks may be easily removed after the surface
has dried by buffing well and recoating). Buff between top coats with
'0000' steel wool or #320 or finer grade sandpaper to produce a smooth
surface. A minimum of 3 top coats is recommended.
4.
Drying Information
Wipe-on Liquid Stains and Top Coats
can dry in 6-8 hours under ideal conditions
(70% - 75% humidity). Cooler temperatures or higher humidity may extend
the time needed for drying up to 12-24 hours or longer. Basements, even
with a furnace, fireplace, and dehumidifier, are the worst environments
for drying. Provide good ventilation and air movement with a fan to
greatly improve dry time. If a stain coat is dry, you should be able to
wipe your hand across the surface without feeling any tackiness. If your
top coat is dry, sanding will produce a white powder.
5.
Coverage
200 square feet per quart.
Maintenance and
Care
It's important to let your final coat cure
for a period of 14 days to reach optimum hardness. You may use your
project sooner, just treat it with special care during the curing period.
To maintain the finish use General Finishes Orange Oil or just a
damp cloth. Paste wax is not recommended, because it builds up and
yellows, thus becoming a maintenance problem.
To rejuvenate an old dull finish, simply
clean surface well with mineral sprits and '0000' steel wool and apply one
of General Finishes Top Coats.
Use caution in disposal
of waste materials!!!!
When using oil based finishes, take careful
precautions when disposing of waste products. Rags, steel wool or other
waste soaked with these products may spontaneously catch fire if improperly
discarded. Never leave application materials indoors. Immediately after use, place rags, steel wool or waste in sealed, water filled,
metal container. Dispose of in accordance with local fire regulations.
|
